FERRY TALES:
TIED UP
Dispatch #6 from an undercover Washington State Ferries deckhand
WRITTEN BY ALBERT A. SHORR
ILLUSTRATIONS BY KATE CLARK
“How do I even know which boat to get on?” Ronald’s text comes through as I’m hopping down the stairs from my car to the Bainbridge dock. The paid parking lot behind me is eerily empty. Below me, both boats tower over Eagle Harbor, tucked, too quietly, into their respective slips. A few cars come and go from the booth, but the holding lanes are empty. I pause, watching red and yellow leaves tumble patiently through the air, letting a crisp breeze kiss my cheek. I check my phone to try to figure out which boat our crew will be staffing, regardless of whether or not we sail. For swing shifts and afternoons, getting on the right boat is easy, sort of. You can call dispatch, but as we know, they aren’t always trustworthy. Or you can look at the schedule and your prescribed start time, split the difference, show up, check if things are on time, and look for your crew loitering in the parking lot. Easy, right? And when the boats aren’t running, well, I guess you phone a friend or make your best guess. In the WSDOT app, I see the notification again, “Sea/BI - Seattle/Bainbridge Route out of service on 10/5.”
A couple of days ago we got a tip from Larry as he crunched his chips, “I heard Bainbridge and Seattle might be shutting down for a couple days. It’s the engineers. Even if they need the money, they can’t show up. Otherwise they’d be the scab.” Today, sure enough, the engineers are staging a “sickout.”
I see one of the white shirts schlepping some bags down the dock, and I follow him to the locked gate of Slip 1. I send Ronald a quick text, and think about him zooming through Tacoma to make it on time for the watch. Ronald is an Eastsider (what we call Seattleites or other folks who live on the east side of Puget Sound). Today, he doesn’t even have the option to deadhead. He’s as stuck as all the commuters, just on the opposite side. So Ronald must spend his hard-earned money and four hours of his day driving around to get to work. I would love to live in Seattle. But when a boat goes down, I bear witness to the fuel and time that Eastsiders burn. Small panic and big dread ensue. I don’t know if I could control my rage at the whole ordeal just to spend a day sitting on an empty boat. A lot of deck crew called out sick today too, but not Ronald. Of course not.
Something like this is the closest thing union-represented workers get to a strike. Labor unions, like the Marine Engineers Beneficial Association (MEBA), are organized by laborers (or former laborers) in a specific sector to negotiate with employers for fair wages and working conditions. Unions help workers get jobs and keep them. Especially in Washington, many public-sector employers work a clause into their agreements that bans them from striking. They negotiate every few years, with the idea that workers have agreed to the terms of their conditions. The document that results, a collective bargaining agreement, is public information. MEBA’s formally states that “there shall be no strikes, lockouts or work stoppages at any time.” But if I hadn’t gotten a raise in years, I too would make a pact with my coworkers, throw my oil-soaked rag in the proper bin, and call in sick. I’d remind my employer that I actually have the power to shut it all down. I’d shrug when the state said they lack the funds, and tell them to figure it out. One captain suggested that the state might find money in deeper pockets, but that’s up to voters.
On this “sick” day, WSF’s social media account responded by revealing the highest-paid engineer’s salary. The number they dropped falls solidly in the range of the area’s median income – fine, not great. The company boasted that, with overtime, this salary could be doubled. Both the deck and the engine room depend on overtime to get a decent paycheck; of course, we shouldn’t have to. Ferry engineers make less than other local marine engineers. We need more of them, but we won’t get them if we don't pay them. The biggest problem I see is the pay gap within the ferry system. All engineers make less than their deck counterparts. That’s right. The people who actually keep the boats running make less. An Oiler, the engine room equivalent to AB, makes $37.63 hourly. ABs make $42.58. It’s a solid wage for a blue-collar job. But it’s not great for supporting a family. Making rent can be tight, and for many, buying a home still feels like just a dream. Sometimes, at sea, the scent of land blows in on a storm. As you sail, you squint in the direction of the nearest continent, but it’s all just water. Ferry pay keeps us afloat, but also makes us question our navigation.
There’s been a lot of talk about the horrible schedule that engineers have, too. “They work seven days for twelve hours!” folks decry. I would also not want this schedule, but seven days on means seven days off. Many mariners work schedules like this and really like it. Alaska Marine Highway employees do two weeks on, two weeks off. Folks who work offshore often sign on for three months and get stuck at sea for nine months or more. It could be better for ferry engineers, but it could be worse. Deck schedules aren’t great either. Pick your poison: Wake up at 2am and start work at 3am, or start at 2pm and work until midnight, or start work at 7pm and work until 4am. Some shifts run for ten days followed by only four days of rest. At least we all get to go home every night. Or at some point every day.
But we keep showing up on lovely fall Mondays like this one. I unlock the green gate and muscle open the door, trying to keep two pizza boxes secure in my left arm. I walk into the empty smile of the Wenatchee. Upstairs I find a blissful, peaceful, quiet cabin. The lights are dimmed, and the morning crew is mustered outside the dayroom, absorbed in phones, twittering about some mate.
“Oh hey, Albert!” a friend greets me as I plop down next to her. “You brought us pizza?” I shrug. I feel a twinge, because I didn’t. Because there’s never enough for everyone, whether it’s pay or pizza. The morning crew’s captain appears, holding a black messenger bag.
“Okay who is here? One OS? Okay, Chantal, you can go. There are two ABs, so you two can go. And the captain just arrived, so I’m out of here.” This isn’t the usual handoff, but today isn’t a normal day. Right on time, our chief mate walks up the stairs lugging two bags of groceries. Today is going to be a good food day. Once everyone trickles in and spreads out into their very own booth, David instructs us to check our respective areas to make sure they are clean.
Reader, I think you know by now; some crews are better than others. My crew today is superb, but the crew we relieved was mediocre. My areas: The sun deck heads, libraries, and car deck heads, appear untouched. So I slap on a pair of nitrile gloves and prop open the door to one of the car deck heads. I squirt some purple in the toilet bowl, spray some red on the seat, in the sink. I scrub, wipe everything down. Yuck. Looks like this hasn’t been cleaned in a week. I sweep, go upstairs for a mop. I wipe down the walls. I start on the blackened corners, fuzzy with dust. When rust and paint start to peel, I call it. On to the next.
I come up for air, shaking dust from my blue rag into a trashcan. I see an engineer, a Harry Potter type, walking toward the rail. He’s got his big headphones on and is carrying a sandwich, an apple, and a soda. He’s got a pleasant look on his face. Satisfied. In his zone. He walks slowly toward the starboard rail. He rests his forearms there and stares out onto Eagle Harbor. I consider going to talk to him, but asking him to acknowledge this ordeal feels inappropriate. I keep cleaning, sweating and zigzagging through my sections.
Back upstairs the ABs have donned harnesses, climbed outside the safety of the green gates. They make their way steadily offshore, lathering the windows with soap, scrubbing at stubborn seagull poop, swiping it all away with squeegees. The sun is out and I can see them sweat too, blue shirts are unbuttoned, undershirts are out. Our fill-in second mate shows up in time for our theoretical second round trip with a case of sparkling water, a boom box, and four more pizzas.
After all the windows are shining, and I’ve swept behind the doors and in all cabin corners, David mandates a thirty-minute break. We flock to the day room for another slice. We take out our phones and check in on the digital world. The bosun takes a phone call near the galley. One of the ABs retreats into their hood and scrolls, slowly sliding to horizontal. Another Eastside OS walks up from the car deck, out of breath and visibly pissed off. “WOW you actually showed up,” one AB heckles. We ask him about his journey. We get distracted and start yapping about who knows what. A few crew take their backpacks and find a hiding place. A reader seeks silence. One OS wants a power nap.
Heads turn as engineer Harry enters the cabin and addresses the room, “Okay, I’m out of here. I haven’t heard anything from my relief, but he should be here soon.”
We all look around at each other. The bosun asks, “Um, is there anyone else down there?”
“No, just me.”
“Oh okay, well did you let the captain or mate know you were taking off?”
“Nah, that’s why I figured I’d better tell you.”
“Could you please let him know, before you go?”
The engineer sighs, “Fine, I’ll try to find him.”
We all exchange uneasy looks. Even when we’re not underway, we need an engineer to man other running equipment down below. Of course this is happening today. He’s over it. What else can we possibly say to this kid?
Then David calls over the radio, “Wenatchee crew, please meet on the car deck for a drill.” I realize the constant crackle of the blocky neon radios has been missing today. We talk through the procedures for running aground while steeping in the slant of the weakening sun. Aiden comes walking down the bridge wearing a jean jacket, on a mission. He must be on the other boat.
“I came to get fall gear. We don’t have any over there,” he explains, rushing past. He’s much more buoyant than last time I saw him, which is a huge relief.
“Hey, there’s so much pizza. Please take some!” I call out. He turns, nods. Something behind us catches his eye and he points to the pilothouse on the Puyallup, parked next door. Captain Luis, who never forgets a crewmember’s name, is waving at us from on high, his gray-topped head backlit by golden light. We all wave back enthusiastically. Calm, kind, and capable, he’s one of the greats.
The bosun takes the opportunity to cut in, “Hey David, just to double check, did that engineer tell you he was leaving?”
“Wait, what!? When-uhh… Did he say if there was anyone else down there?” David goes a little white as the bosun explains. “Wenatchee captain, what’s your location?” he asks over the radio, already rushing upstairs. Anxious eyebrows raise all around. The second mate takes over the drill and explains how to smash safely into the dock if we have to. It doesn’t take long for him to dismiss us. He’s on overtime.
We pass Aiden on the stairs, who’s holding a harness and two slices. “I took some pizza, and a crisp hundred out of Bobby’s wallet,” he jokes. “You really should stop carrying cash, man.” We smile and tell him to get lost.
Five more hours on the clock. What now? The mate’s portable speaker cheerily “boops” awake. The bosun settles into his booth. The quartermaster pulls out a pan of brownies, then puts on glasses and tethers to their phone. The rest of us play a couple wild rounds of Cards Against Humanity, until we’ve thoroughly bruised each other’s egos. Mariner skin is only so thick. Chitter on the radio lets us know that a couple fresh engineers did show up. The captain joins in, coming up from the engine room, where he’s been babysitting the generators. Apparently the port captain instructed him to abandon ship without a fight if something down there caught on fire.
Darkness smothers the golden leaves on the hill outside. Two crew members do the Macarena, the Electric Slide, the Two-Step. Finally, someone offers a reasonable musical suggestion. The quartermaster surprises us with Twister. We take turns visiting the day room and slowly demolish the pizza. We crush dozens of cans of bubbly water. I start to yawn, and retreat to a booth of my own.
I see a text from a friend whose grandmother worked for the ferries in the ’80s, during the last major union strike. “My grandma says this whole thing brings back lots of memories,” it says. I ask her to tell me more. She says no boats sailed for two weeks while everyone in the system stood with the IBU (Inland Boatmen’s Union). No one went to work. No engineers, no officers, no deck crew, no galley. No one even showed up in the office. The Longshoremen's Union shut down all of Seattle’s ports in support of the strike. Union leaders ended up in jail, but ferryboaters got a hiring hall and better wages.
I throw my phone aside and stare at the tiny holes in the beige ceiling tile above. I wonder what the next few years at WSF will bring. Can the union really keep any of our jobs safe? Surely the state won’t build bridges over Puget Sound — like the earnest Ferries captain suggested in his Seattle Times op-ed — if they can’t even afford to fairly compensate our engineers. But will they be able to staff three new boats? Will our pay plateau as the cost of everything continues to rise? Will robots direct traffic? I picture one completely obliterated by an oblivious driver in a white SUV, phone in hand. I stop my swirling mind. As nice as it is to have a pizza party at the dock, I’d prefer to stare at the blue edge where the hull and the waves meet as we move through the Sound. I’m afraid to say it, knock on steel, but I’d take a year without a raise if we could fairly pay the folks who really keep us moving.
In Solidarity,
Al A. Shorr
If you enjoyed the illustrations, check out Kate Clark’s website and Instagram.
Al A. Shorr’s identity is one secret we will never tell! But yes, Albert is a real-life employee of the Washington State Ferries.
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